Muzzles

Why a muzzle?

Muzzles often get a bad rap because they make a dog look “scary.” However they are an important tool for keeping dogs - and people - safe. There are multiple reasons that a dog may wear a muzzle, for example:

Cai wore a muzzle when he went to the emergency room for a painful eye injury.

• The dog is fearful of strangers or dogs approaching. The muzzle not only keeps this dog from being able to bite someone, it also acts as a signal for others to give him space.

• The dog may be friendly and social most of the time, but bite in specific contexts, such as when guarding food or his owner.

• The dog may be too rough with biting during play, but otherwise play nicely. (One of my own dogs fits this category.)

• The dog may bite when in pain. (One of my dogs needs to be muzzled at the vet’s if he is injured because he would bite the vet.)

• The dog may be in the habit of picking up trash or other unsafe items and trying to eat them.

• The dog may have severe allergies or another medical condition that could be triggered by eating things off the ground, or eating another dog’s treats.

• The dog may be required to wear a muzzle while traveling or due to breed-specific legislation.

Whatever the reason, muzzles can be a lifesaving tool.

What kind of muzzle should I use?

If your dog will be wearing the muzzle for more than a few minutes, you should use a “basket” muzzle. This is the type that creates a “cage” around the dog’s jaws. It mostly prevents the dog from biting anyone*, but still allows him to eat treats, drink water, and pant to cool himself down.

Do not use a “soft” or “grooming” muzzle that forces the dog’s mouth shut - this is dangerous because it does not allow the dog to pant to cool down. It may also still allow the dog to nip with his front teeth!

* Note that determined dogs may still manage to nip, bite, or grab objects through softer basket muzzles. Here is an article that compares muzzle types, and will help you choose an appropriate muzzle for your dog’s temperament and specific needs.

Here is a video from dog aggression expert Michael Shikashio on choosing an appropriate type and size of muzzle for your individual dog:

Where can I buy a muzzle?

Terra wears a muzzle because she can be too rough during play.

There are a few brands that you can find in big box stores, however these may not fit your particular dog well, especially if your dog has a particularly flat, long, or wide snout (for example, French Bulldog, Greyhound, or pit bull-type). Always measure your dog’s snout rather than going by the “suggested size” for a particular breed. For example, the Baskerville Ultra is easy to find but has limited sizing options.

If your dog is full grown, I recommend purchasing a muzzle that is more accurately sized for your specific dog. That will require getting measurements of your dog’s snout, head, and neck. If you are ordering online, check the vendor’s recommendations for where and how to measure for their own products.

Wire muzzles - good for high bite risk dogs, with the one caveat that getting “punched” by a wire muzzle still hurts:

• Dean and Tyler has a large variety of size options.

• Big Snoof Dog Gear makes custom wire muzzles.

Vinyl muzzles - good for biters and scavengers:

• Jafco has a limited number of sizes but are lower in price.

• Trust Your Dog makes custom vinyl muzzles.

• Mia’s Muzzles makes custom vinyl muzzles.

Solid, non-flexible, injection-molded polyethylene (plastic) - good for biters and have an optional “scavenger guard”:

• The Muzzle Movement (based in UK; has lifetime warranty)

Custom biothane muzzles - for lower bite risk dogs; coverage can be fuller for scavengers or more open for increased airflow:

• Trust Your Dog

• Khaos Kollars (they also make custom leather muzzles)

• Bumas (I have a Bumas for two of my adult dogs and I like them a lot!)

Teaching your dog to wear a muzzle

Now that you have your appropriately-sized muzzle, you need to teach your dog to be comfortable wearing it. Unfortunately most dogs will scratch and fuss if you just put something on their face and head out. Teaching them to be okay with it is not difficult, as long as you break the process down into little steps and make it fun along the way - that’s desensitization!

Here is a how-to video by Emily Larlham:

Here is another video by Chirag Patel:

Here is one from Sarah McManaman that focuses just on the process of buckling the muzzle behind the dog’s head:

Exercise

Many dog owners struggle to give their dogs enough exercise. Bored dogs who are full of energy are more likely to engage in nuisance behaviors like jumping, chewing, barking, digging, and pulling on leash. Here is a variety of ideas to help you find the right form of physical exercise for your dog. Note that depending on your dog’s personality and favorite activities, some of these - like fetching a ball - can wind your dog up rather than sating and calming him. You may choose to avoid certain activities for that reason, or follow them with a more calming activity like a decompression walk, tricks training, or chewing on a bone. Make sure to balance physical exercise with mental enrichment.

One other note of caution is that if your dog is not yet full grown, you should be careful with activities that are high impact or cause repetitive stress, as this can lead to growth plate injuries. If you want to take your dog for long bouts of exercise like jogging or running beside a bicycle, make sure to follow a conditioning plan and increase intensity over time, just as you would with a human athlete.

Running toy play

• Fetch: chasing a tossed toy (often a ball), then bringing it back to you to toss again. Try a Chuck It to add distance to your throws.

  • If your dog doesn’t pick up the ball, try training a retrieve separate from playtime.

  • If your dog picks up the ball but doesn’t bring it toward you, try:

    • Play in a hallway or other corridor that encourages him to come back toward you because he doesn’t have anywhere else to go. Then use a treat or second ball to reward him.

    • After he picks up the ball, run in the other direction so he chases you. Reward with a treat or second ball when he catches up.

    • Attach a string to the ball and use it to gently reel your dog in. Reward with a treat or second ball when he reaches you.

  • If your dog brings the ball back but doesn’t drop it, try “2 ball fetch”:

    • 1. Throw the first ball.

    • 2. When your dog comes back, bring out the second ball and get him excited about it.

    • 3. As soon as he drops the first ball, throw the second one as a reward.

    • 4. Pick up the ball he dropped, and repeat.

  • If your dog brings the ball back but really wants to play tug instead of having you throw it again, try using a ball on a tug rope so that you can tug easily. Teach them to drop it separate from playtime. Examples of balls on a tug rope are the Nero Ball, Beanie Braided Fleece Ball Tug, Kong Squeaker Ball with Throw Rope, Fling Thing Tennis Ball Toy

• Fetch on an incline: To make it more physically challenging, play on a slope. (Don’t use stairs, as that’s a major tripping/falling hazard when your dog is excited.)

• Disc/frisbee: Same as fetch, but using a disc. Your dog may prefer this over a ball. Practice tossing the disc so it stays low to the ground, or even rolls along the ground, to discourage wild jumps into the air that may cause injury.

• Toss a toy and run away: It doesn’t matter whether your dog picks up the toy - just get him sprinting after it, then sprinting back after you! Yes, you’ll be getting exercise as well, but your dog will be covering at least twice as much ground as you.

• Toss a Lotus Ball or other treat-filled toy: If your dog doesn’t care about toys but enjoys treats, you can teach him how to get a treat out of a Lotus Ball, and get him chasing that.

• Laser pointer: Some people like to have their dog chase a laser pointer like cats do, but this should be used with extreme caution as dogs are prone to developing compulsive behaviors associated with chasing lights and shadows. Most veterinarians and behaviorists advice against playing with laser pointers.

Tugging toy play

• Go ahead and play tug, but make sure to practice drop it, teach your dog to sit politely instead of jumping up for and snatching at the toy, and only play with dog toys and not random objects.

• If your dog has only a little interest in toys and you want to encourage him to play, try:

  • Use special “high value” toys like ones that incorporate real rabbit fur or real sheepskin.

  • Put a toy on a string and have it “run away” from your pup, then let him catch it and have it “try to get away.” This stimulates predatory behavior, which is natural for most dogs.

  • Give only very gentle tugs, and let your dog quickly “win.” Fuss over him when he wins the toy.

• Flirt pole: A flirt pole is a like a giant cat toy or fishing pole for dogs. It allows you to whip a toy along the ground for your dog to chase and tug with. You can purchase a designated flirt pole (small dogs, big dogs) or create your own by purchasing a lunge whip at the feed store and attaching any toy dog to the end.

• Spring pole: For serious tuggers! If your dog loves to play tug so much that he doesn’t even need a human on the other end of the toy, you can hang a metal spring from a tree or other solid object and attach a strong line and toy at the end. Your dog can tug and tug against the metal spring.

Indoor activities

• Hide and seek: Hide from your dog while he is distracted, waiting in a stay, or being held by another family member. Then call him and let him run around and try to find you! This works well with multiple family members hiding and taking turns calling the dog.

• Recall round robin: Make a big circle with family members and take turns calling your dog back and forth.

• Toss treats or kibble: Let your dog chase down each piece as you toss them first to one side, then the other.

• Indoor agility: Set up an obstacle course using furniture, cardboard boxes, and blankets! Try having your dog go under, over, through, between, and around various items. For example, he might go between the couch and wall, then under a draped blanket, then around a bar stool, then over a broomstick propped horizontally on books, then through a cardboard box tunnel!

Backyard activities

• Backyard agility: As above, you can create your own obstacles that your dog will go under, over, through, between, and around. You can use items you already have, like broomsticks, flower pots, and deck chairs. If you like creating things, you can find tutorials online for creating PVC jumps and weave poles and wooden dog walks and a-frames. See a video with more ideas here. Or you can purchase a home agility kit online.

• Digging: If your dog loves to dig up your veggies and flower beds, consider creating a designated digging area for him! You can use a plastic pool or create a wooden frame and fill it with play sand. To help him learn to dig only in that area, bury toys and chews for him to find.

• Pool: Swimming is a great form of exercise. To help your dog get comfortable with the pool, practice getting in and out at the shallow end before you expect him to actually swim. If even that is scary, or you have a small dog, practice with a small plastic children’s pool first.

Outings

• Swimming: You can find areas to let your dog paddle around or swim at Putah Creek by downtown Winters, Lake Berryessa, or travel farther out to a dog-friendly beach.

• Hiking: Whether on or off leash, a hike in a natural area with lots of new scents beats a walk through the neighborhood any day. Check out Rockville Hills Regional Park, Browns Valley Open Space Preserve, Lagoon Valley and Pena Adobe, Rush Ranch Open Space, and Grasslands Regional Park.

• Park: Even dogs who have trouble with coming when called can play at a grassy, open park if they are on a long line.

• Jogging or running: If you’re just as much of an athlete as your dog, you can go jogging or running together, or have your dog run alongside your bicycle. (It’s recommended to use a Springer or similar dog attachment for your bike so that they can’t veer in front of you.)

• Bikejoring, pulling scooter, carting: A strong, fit dog can pull your bicycle (called bikejoring), scooter, or a cart for exercise. This requires foundational training to start, stop, turn left and right, and ignore distractions.

Playmates

• Dog park: The dog park is what many people immediately think of when they want their dog to have a romp and play. This can be a good outlet, but should be used with caution. Because there is no screening of who goes into the dog park, and not all owners are vigilant or knowledgeable, there can be lots of bullying or even fighting. In addition, the entrance to the park can be overwhelming, with everyone mobbing newcomers. The dog park should only be used for dogs who are already friendly and stable in a variety of social situations. Small dogs should not mix with unknown large dogs for safety. Here is more information on making outings to the dog park successful.

• Play dates: Prearranged play dates make an excellent alternative to the free-for-all of the dog park. Set up one on one dates for dogs that your dog has already met and gets along with, or ones you think will be a good match. If you don’t know anyone among your friends, family, or neighbors, try searching for like-minded folks on NextDoor or local Facebook groups.

• Group walks: For dogs that aren’t into play but do like to hang out with their doggy friends, arrange to go on a walk together, in the neighborhood or at a park.

Dog sports

There are many, many organized dog sports to dabble in, and multiple organizations that host competitions. You’ll want to ask around to find what is local to you. These are just a few of the sports that emphasize physical exertion on the dog’s part:

• Agility: An obstacle course with jumps, tunnels, a-frame, weave poles, and more.

• Lure coursing: The dogs chase after a “lure” (usually a white plastic bag) that is animated via a wire, and runs away like a small prey animal.

• Weight pulling: Strong dogs pull a weighed-down cart or sled.

Update for training services due to COVID-19 restrictions

Update as of 01/03/2021:

After carefully reviewing the statewide recommendations and guidelines for “limited service” businesses, I feel comfortable returning to meeting clients in person, with the following precautions in place:

• Everyone prevent must wear a well-fitted mask that covers their nose and mouth.

• We will stay outdoors during the entire appointment.

• I will stay at least 6 feet, but preferably 10 feet away from clients.

Appointments over Zoom are still available for clients outside of my service area, or those who are high-risk.

Current as of 12/11/2020:

New client assessments NOT for board & train: These will be taking place over Zoom. See tips on setup below. If it will be difficult for you to show your dog's "problem" behaviors on camera, please take videos ahead of time and send me links as early as you can.

New client assessments FOR board & train: Since it is necessary for your dog to meet my own dogs and make sure that everyone will be comfortable together, you will still be bringing your dog over. However I will have you put your dog in my fenced yard, and I will do the introductions on my own. You are welcome to watch from your car. We will do a separate appointment over Zoom for the discussion portion of the assessment.

Private lessons which are NOT working on leash reactivity: These will be taking place over Zoom. Feel free to send me videos with updates on your dog's behavior between lessons, especially if it will be difficult to show the relevant behavior while on camera.

Private lessons which ARE working on leash reactivity: These are going to be tricky to do over video. The easiest way is to have an extra family member or friend hold a phone and point it at the dog and handler in training. If you don't have an extra person, I recommend using a waist leash so that you don't have to use one hand to hold your dog. You should also have a treat pouch or pocket that is easy to get into - no plastic bags that require two hands. (That makes for better training anyway!) If this really doesn't seem doable for you, we can reschedule until COVID is less prevalent in our area... but I expect that to be a long time from now, and I honestly think that it's better to get out and train now even if the format will be somewhat awkward.

Private lessons at pick up from board & train: I will put your dog in the yard and your supplies by my front door at pick up time. We will schedule a separate lesson over Zoom in place of the one that would usually take place at pick up.

Dropping off for board & train: I'll have you put your dog in the yard and leave your supplies by my front door. Please call or text when you arrive (don't knock on the door).

Tips for setting up Zoom lessons:

Here is a video made by one of my colleagues on how to join a meeting.

You will need:

• A computer/laptop, tablet, or smartphone with a camera and speakers. Make sure you have it plugged in or fully charged. Ask your family to avoid streaming or doing their own video chats during the lesson, so your connection isn’t slowed down. (Of course, ideally your family would be participating in the lesson!)

• A place to set your equipment that will allow me to see yourself and your dog as you practice. It helps to put it higher up, like on a shelf or a stack of books. Make sure the area is quiet (no radio, tv, or other pets distracting you), and has good lighting.

• Lots of small, tasty treats for your dog, and toys if he enjoys them.

• Your dog’s leash, collar, harness, or other equipment.

Uploading videos to YouTube: You will need to have a Google account (as Google owns YouTube).

Here is a video tutorial on how to upload your own video from a PC.

And from a phone.

Please let me know if you have any questions or concerns about the change in format. Thank you for your understanding and help in keeping everyone safe during this difficult time.

Dogs and Babies/Kids

Here are my favorite resources on raising dogs and babies/kids together.

Graphics:

How Kids SHOULD NOT Interact with Dogs (PDF)

Teaching Respect (JPG)

Pat, Pet, Pause (PNG) (How to greet dogs)

Should Your Child Walk Your Dog Alone? (PNG)

Videos:

DOG STARS (Bite prevention video for kids!) (song on dog safety for gradeschoolers)

I Speak Doggie (song on dog safety for preschoolers)

How to kiss a dog (how to safely give “kisses”)

Demo: petting a puppy without getting bit (how to calmly pet “collar-to-tail”)

Does Your Dog REALLY Want to be Petted? (body language and consent test info)

Dog Body Language - what your dog is desperately trying to tell you! (body language info)

Stop the 77 (examples of “cute” dog and kid photos in which the dogs are showing stressed body language)

Articles

5 steps to living with babies and dogs — Cannon Dog Training

Help! My Dog Just Growled at my Kid

Baby Safety Around Dogs | Prepare the family dog for life with a baby

Mamas, Don’t Let Your Babies Get Magnetized to Dogs - Baby Safe Dog Training (very long article but full of wisdom)

Our Lab is a Magnet for the Baby - Baby Safe Dog Training

Should Dog Lick Baby - Baby Safe Dog Training

Can Dog Like Baby TOO Much? - Baby Safe Dog Training

How Can I Socialize My Puppy With Kids? - Baby Safe Dog Training

How Can I Control OTHER Children Around My Dog? - Baby Safe Dog Training

Webinars & On-Demand Classes:

Family Paws has two webinars that can be accessed at any time: 1) Dogs & Storks: Preparing families with dogs for life with baby, 2) Dogs & Toddlers: Preparing families with dogs for life with toddler

Pooch Parenting also has several on-demand, self-paced classes.

Podcasts:

Paws & Reward Podcast: Ep 3: Kids and Dogs Living in Harmony with Kirsten Kinsella

The Bitey End of the Dog: Debby Lucken - Kids Around Dogs (Link on YouTube) (Link on Overcast)

Cog-Dog Radio: Sport Dogs and Kids with Michelle Stern (Link on Overcast)

Pooch Parenting - all of the podcast episodes are wonderful, but I wanted to highlight these in particular:

• 31. Cori Tufano – Managing Puppies around Kids

• 84. Separation is Not the Same as Isolation when Managing Kids and Dogs

• 27. Trish McMillan – Choosing a Shelter Dog for Families

• 37. Can Kids Live in Homes with Aggressive Dogs?

• 7. Service Dogs for Families with Kids

• 77. 5 Essentials to Prepare Your Dog for New Baby

Enrichment

Enrichment refers to activities your dog can engage in that provide mental exercise and entertainment. It is a critical part of providing for your dog’s needs, especially if you have a “busy” dog who gets into trouble when bored. Many of these activities can be prepped ahead of time, so that you can dole them out while you’re busy with work or childcare. Read through the list and pick out what makes the most sense for your dog. I have personally tried all of the products that I have linked to!

Food Toys

Stuffing a toy with food is a classic way to provide enrichment. The most well known food toy is the Kong. I generally buy one size larger than the recommended one from the company. If you need a more durable version, try the black Kong. Other hollow toys you can easily stuff with food, thanks to the large hole at the top, are the West Paw Toppl and Planet Dog Double Tuff. Start your dog out on:

• Easy Mode: Fill with dry treats/kibble, which will fall out easily as your dog paws at the toy.

• Medium Difficulty: Combine the dry stuff with foods that will “glue” themselves in.

  • Peanut butter (make sure it does not contain xylitol)

  • Cream cheese

  • Yogurt

  • Canned dog or cat food

  • Mushed banana or cooked sweet potato

  • Canned pumpkin

  • Ground raw meat or dog food

  • Dehydrated dog food mixed with a little water (eg Honest Kitchen)

• Hard: Put the toy in the freezer overnight, and hand to your pup still frozen. If you’re worried about the contents of a Kong spilling out, plug the bottom hole with peanut butter first, then place upside down in a cup in the freezer.

Another type of toy that you can fill with a combo of kibble and goodies is the “slow bowl,” like the Outward Hound Slo Bowl. Don’t be shy about just spreading yummy goop across the grooves with a knife - it’s dishwasher safe. This can be frozen, as well.

A variant on the food stuffable toy is the Lickimat, a rubbery mat with little “nubs” all over the surface. You can smear canned food, yogurt, peanut butter, cream cheese, or other spreadables on it, then the dog will lick, lick, lick until it’s all gone. Put into the freezer to make it last longer. The repetitive licking can have a soothing affect on anxious dogs and puppies.

For dogs that go nuts for plain kibble (lucky you!), you can feed them via kibble dispensers. Good examples are the Kong Wobbler, PetSafe Kibble Nibble, and Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball. Of course, you can mix in some small treats to make it even more interesting for them. Some brands of freeze-dried raw food may fit inside as well, such as Instinct Freeze Dried Raw Toppers or Stella & Chewy’s Freeze Dried Toppers.

Is your dog really destructive? Try a treat/kibble dispenser made of PVC from Ulti-Mutt! (You could also make your own!)

Edible Chews

This refers to anything that is safe for your dog to completely consume as he chews on it. Many of these are many of real animal parts, making them very tasty and popular among dogs.

• Less durable examples - for moderate chewers: bully sticks* (much cheaper when purchased in bulk, and available in thicker/longer pieces for harder chewers), Earth Animal No-Hide Chews, dried beef tendons, pig ears and cow ears, Etta Says Premium Crunchy Chews.

  • *If you are worried about your dog chewing the bully stick down to a 2-3 inch piece and then swallowing that whole, try a Bow Wow Buddy or Bullysafe holder.

• More durable examples - for heavy chewers*: smoked knuckle bones, cow hooves, elk antlers, water buffalo horns, Ware Gorilla Chew (very dense wood), Himalayan Hard Cheese Chews, Etta Says Long Lasting Deluxe Chews,

  • *Note that some of these are tough enough that they could lead to cracked teeth, especially if your dog likes to put the chew in the back of his mouth and crunch down hard with his molars. Watch your dog’s chewing style - it’s safer if he’s slowly wearing at the toy instead.

• Frozen chews: freeze low sodium broth in ice cubes (try a large silicone ice cube tray) or LickiMat Wobble as a bowl; you can get creative and freeze in layers so that treats or kibble are suspended inside. You could even feed your dog’s whole meal frozen into a bowl for hot days!

• Raw meaty bones: beef marrow bones are a classic treat that can be purchased from your butcher or grocery store. You can also feed necks, wings, and feet from chickens, ducks, or turkeys, or even half or whole raw chickens. Many people feed their dogs entirely via raw meat, bones, and organs. Feeling nervous about giving raw food to your dog? Here's a great podcast on the topic. Excel Pet Pantry is a local company that does monthly deliveries of raw food as well as other products.

• Fresh wheat grass: eating too much is likely to make your dog throw up, but you can buy small pots of these (usually sold for cats!) and let your dog have nibbles here and there for entertainment.

Pet Food Express in Davis has a great selection of chews and good prices. They are my favorite place to shop locally!

Creative Toys

Beyond tug and fetch!

• Provide items that it's okay for your dog to tear up, such as:

  • cardboard boxes (thin boxes from cracker/cookie packaging and tissue boxes are great for smaller dogs)

  • junk mail

  • cheap stuffed animals (as long as he won't eat the stuffing)

  • old t-shirts or jeans cut into strips then braided tightly together

  • the Hol-ee Roller (mini, small, medium, large) can be stuffed with pieces of fabric, other toys, and/or large chews for the dog to chew on and pull out ( and here’s a “tough” version for power chewers)

  • if you’re a sewer, you can place a squeaker or treats into a small square of fabric, then hide that within another square of fabric, and so on, like a Russian doll of fabric layers that your dog can tear apart

• Create a “busy box” of all kinds of things that the dog is allowed to chew on and tear up and play with. Use a plastic bin or cardboard box. Credit to my friend Tania Lanfer for introducing me to this idea. Here is a video of her dog Pira playing with one.

• If your dog likes balls, try a giant Jolly ball. For variety, here’s a heavy duty version, one with a handle for tugging or throwing, one with a rope attached, and an egg-shaped one that will roll unpredictably. I’ve found that Jolly balls tend to be popular with herding breeds, and bully breeds that like very physical play, along with the ball-obsessed.

• Hide your dog’s toys so they have to hunt for them; it adds a mental challenge to your regular games.

• Rather than having all your dog's toys available all the time, rotate them so that old toys feel new and exciting again.

• Bring home a sturdy stick for your pup to chew on and play with.

Scent Games

Dogs have amazing noses and love using them. Intensive sniffing, as when they are hunting for something, provides not just entertainment but a good mental workout.

• Snuffle mat: the dense fringes of fabric allow you to hide kibble or treats, and your dog has to hunt for them.

• Create your own snuffle mat by balling up a large towel or blanket, and hiding kibble/treats in the folds. Make it more challenging by tying the ends in knots, or stuffing it into a box.

• Scatter your dog’s food in the grass outside (like a living snuffle mat!). Video example here.

• Get 3 cups or other small containers and place them upside down in front of your dog. Hide a treat under one of the cups, then shuffle them around as your dog watches. Let him figure out which cup is hiding the treat!

• Plant interesting scents in the yard for your dog to find. Do you have a friend with a pet rat? Ask for a handful of its bedding in a ziplock bag, and let your dog check it out through the opening. Coworker with a horse? Have her rub a rag or towel on the horse for you. You can do this with plants, too: “hey, where did this clump of magnolia flowers or rosemary stems come from?”

• Nose Work is a formal activity in which you train your dog to find a specific scent (such as birch essential oil) and tell you where it is. Here is an explanation with ways to get you started.

Field Trips

Outings to new places provide mental enrichment. A 30 minute trip to someplace new will tire your dog out more than a 30 minute walk around the neighborhood. Here is a list of places that are usually dog friendly. (You can call ahead to ask if you’re not sure about a specific store.)

• Pet stores (Pet Food Express is my favorite)

• Feed stores (eg, Higby’s in Dixon, Western Ranch in Vacaville, Tractor Supply Co)

• Hardware stores (the Lowe’s in Vacaville explicitly welcomes pet dogs, but most other hardware stores do as well)

• Sporting goods stores (eg, Bass Pro Shop, Cabela’s, Orvis)

• Craft stores (eg, Michaels, Hobby Lobby)

• Plant nurseries (eg, Lemuria in Dixon, Sweet Pea’s in Vacaville)

• Cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating

• Many clothing and home goods stores, like:

  • Nordstrom, Ann Taylor, LL Bean, Macy’s

  • Ross, TJ Maxx, Marshalls

  • Old Navy, The Gap

  • Victoria’s Secret

  • Lush, Sephora

  • Pottery Barn

• If you’re too busy to take your dog on a field trip just for him, take him with you on errands. Walk around the parking lot of your destination for 15 minutes, then have him wait in the car (if safe to do so) while you take care of business.

Even if you’re walking in your own neighborhood, you can spice up the walk by doing some agility or parkour tricks!

Decompression Walks

For dogs that have trouble settling down, I highly recommend decompression walks. These are long walks in natural settings (a school or park lawn will do if “real” nature isn’t available). They may be done on a long line or within a fenced area so that your dog can roam instead of being restricted to 6’. Dog parks don’t count as they increase arousal instead of decreasing it - unless you’re lucky enough to find a time that it’s empty.

Here are two podcasts discussing the benefits of decompression walks: A Decompression Walk Chat, and Decompression Walk Answers. Here is an article on the topic.

“For nearly 15 years I have been recommending that my clients find ways to increase their dogs’ off leash time in nature.... Why? I knew it was best. I saw the results in every single dog. I saw the results in my own. Whether or not something is easily accessible to us is not the deciding factor in its efficacy.

letting their dogs move their bodies freely in nature improves their behavior in daily life, full stop. The list of people who have reached out to me, shared that they were initially angered or frustrated by this advice, and went on to tell me they eventually tried it and will never go back, is a long one.

For some dogs, a long sniffy meander on a long line will serve their behavioral health needs just fine, while another dog might be frustrated beyond belief by that tether and do much better in a smaller space, restricted by fences.

I have mentioned several times that experimenting, trying different iterations and observing your dog’s behavioral effects is the method to use here. This is the only way to know if we are providing “enough” and there is no right answer. Some general guidelines are: younger dogs need more than older dogs, gundogs and herders need more than seems reasonable–again, especially when they are young–and dogs with higher-stress personalities tend to have some of the biggest positive outcomes. Companion and service bred dogs of many breed varieties need the least (and this is on purpose!). “Enough” is a moving target, and constant evaluation is required. If you are a behavior professional making off leash exercise a part of your behavior change plans, measure the behaviors you are trying to reduce and take good data on the progress. Your clients will be best motivated by results. ”

— Sarah Stremming

Do your best to stay out long enough that your dog actually slows down and relaxes. Remember that this is easier to achieve if you are able to go frequently, even if each outing is then shorter.

On days off, drive farther away if needed, to access hiking spots or just go somewhere new. Search for dog-friendly trails on AllTrails.com.

If your dog needs a private space because he’s fearful or reactive, check out SniffSpot, which allows people to rent out their yards or land for walking. Or try posting on NextDoor, Facebook, or other social media to locate neighbors willing to lend out their yard or land.

Tricks Training

Tricks training is a great way to tire your dog mentally. Here is a YouTube playlist full of tricks tutorials.

You can also train for a specific dog sport, which gives you concrete goals and structure. Competing allows you to show off your dog’s training progress and spend time with like-minded people. But even if you never compete, structured training allows you to keep progressing, and therefore mentally challenging your pup. Examples of dog sports are:

• Agility: an obstacle course with jumps, tunnels, a-frame, weave poles, and more

• Competition Obedience: requires precise heeling, stays, understanding sit vs down vs stand, retrieving a dumbbell, recognizing your scent on an item, and more

• Rally O: heeling, sit vs down vs stand, stays, and more as you progress around a course

• Musical freestyle: choreograph a series of tricks to music of your choice

• Rally-FrEe: a combination of musical freestyle and rally o; you and your dog perform tricks like spins and leg weaves as you progress around a course

• Treibball: also called “urban herding,” it allows your dog to “herd” giant inflated balls into a soccer net

• Herding: actually herding real animals, most commonly sheep, goats, ducks, or cattle

• Tracking: your dog learns to follow a scent trail that someone walked earlier, from start to finish

• Nose Work: your dog learns to hunt down an odor (usually essential oils), similar to detection dogs

Interactive/Puzzle Food Toys

These are food puzzles that require your dog to figure out a specific solution to acquire the food inside. Unlike most of the food toys listed up top, these require close supervision to make sure that your dog doesn’t just chew through the wood or plastic instead of solving the puzzle! You may also have to help him along in the beginning. This makes them quite different from food dispensers like Kongs and slow food bowls and lickimats, which allow your dog to self-entertain. I put them way at the bottom of this article because in my experience, once the dog has figured out the solution to a particular puzzle, it loses much of it’s value as a “brain game.” They can still be a great way to slow down a dog who scarfs all his kibble in 20 seconds and then is bugging you for more entertainment - but giving your dog new puzzles, or a toy that he can’t rush through, will provide more satisfying (and tiring) enrichment.

• Nina Ottosson has a number of different puzzle toys available, ranging from easy to difficult.

• For more experienced dogs, Trixie Pet Products has puzzle toys that tend to be more challenging.

• Make your own puzzle out of a muffin tin and balls.

Puppy Carsickness

Puppies are more likely to get carsick than adult dogs, because the parts of the inner ear used for sensing balance are not yet fully developed. This likely creates a “seasick” feeling. Most will outgrow this eventually, but the anxiety that develops from unpleasant car rides can linger.

Common signs of carsickness:

Puppy hiding under seat cover.

• Drooling, repetitive lip licking, gagging, retching, vomiting

• Panting

• Whining, barking

• Sweaty paws

• Trembling, pacing

• Gas or diarrhea

• Hesitance or refusal to get into car, trying to escape from car

What you can do to help:

Relaxed and comfortable!

• Withhold food for a few hours before the car ride, so your dog’s stomach is empty. (Do give water.)

• Try a few different positions in the car. Most dogs do better when they can see out the front window. On the other hand, some dogs are calmer when they can’t see out.

  • Make sure your dog is safely secured using a seat belt, tether, or crate. A loose dog can distract the driver, and go flying if there’s an accident.

• Crack the side windows open. (Don’t open the window wide enough for your dog be able to stick his head out - flying debris can hit his eyes.)

• Keep the car cool and play calm music.

• Drive carefully and smoothly. Be slow and gentle when you’re starting, stopping, and going around turns.

• Keep trips very short at first, and lengthen over time. Start with just exiting the driveway and returning. Progress to going down the block, then a mile away, etc.

• Take frequent, short trips to fun destinations like the park or a friend’s house.

• Associate the car itself with fun things. Play in the back seat without driving anywhere. Feed meals inside. During car rides (as long as your dog won’t vomit afterwards), give him treats or chews (eg bully stick).

• Try giving your dog ginger snaps or ginger capsules before the ride. (Ask your vet about proper dosing.)

• Ask your vet about Cerenia, a prescription medication for nausea, or giving Dramamine or Bonine/Antivert.

  • Dramamine and Bonine/Antivert should be given at least 30 minutes (better 1 hour) before departure.

    • Dosing for dimenhydrinate (Dramamine) is 4–8 mg/kg, every 8 hours.

    • Dosing for meclizine (Bonine and Antivert) is 4 mg/kg, every 24 hours.

  • Cerenia should be given 2 hours before departure.

    • Dosing for maropitant (Cerenia) is 8 mg/kg, every 24 hours, for up to 2 consecutive days.

  • Always check with your vet before giving your dog medication, as it may be contra-indicated based on your dog’s individual medical history or other medications they are taking.

  • Sources for dosing instructions: Motion Sickness in Small Animals: Pathophysiology & Treatment (use textize.net to see full text) and Maropitant Citrate.

Firework phobia

We’re a week out from July 4th, aka Independence Day for us Americans, aka the National Day of Terror for our dogs. It’s very common for dogs to be nervous about the unexpected, loud booms, and it’s said that July 5th is the busiest day of the year for shelters dealing with dogs who have escaped in their panic.

If your dog is one of those who tucks his tail, trembles, paces, or tries to hide or escape, you want to plan ahead of time. This is also useful for New Year’s Eve and during storms.

What to prep now:

Uh oh, I heard a noise…

• Choose a hideout for you and your dog to take cover in. Ideally this is a room in the middle of your home, away from the outer walls. Walk in closets work well for this. Hang out together in this safe room regularly, so that your dog sees it as a comfortable place and not somewhere he’s been banished to. Make it a fun, relaxing experience by playing together, giving him something to chew on, or just relaxing with belly rubs.

• Make sure that your dog has a name tag with your contact info and is microchipped in case he does get loose. (And make sure the information registered with the microchip is up to date.)

• Consider trying some calming products to help your dog deal with the noise. Examples are Adaptil or Sentry products (contain calming dog pheromones), a Thundershirt or other tight wrap, calming treats, CBD oil, etc. Note that for all of these, they work well for some dogs and not at all for others, so it’s important to test them out ahead of time.

• If your dog really struggles with noises, consult with your veterinarian about fast-acting, short-term medication. These can help relieve his anxiety so he’s better able to cope and get through the night safely. There is nothing wrong with giving him extra help through medication! Sileo is an example of a fast-acting drug that is often used for noise phobias.

What to do day of:

Shades drawn and a comforting lap.

• Stay home with your dog through the evening, to keep him safe and provide comfort

• Secure the house - make sure that all doors to the outside and back yard gates are closed.

• Close all the windows to reduce sound coming in. (In case of storms, also cover the windows to reduce flashes of lightning.)

• Play white noise to further reduce the sounds your dog can hear.

• Go to your hideout and settle down with your dog. Bring along anything you’ll need for the evening, such as snacks, laptop, or knitting. Stay calm and relaxed to help reassure your dog.

• If your dog is happy to eat treats, give him a treat every time that he perks his ears or you hear a boom. (It helps if you use extra-yummy treats, like chicken or string cheese.) This is called classical conditioning, and will teach him to associate the noise with yummy food.*

  • *This will only work if your dog is eager for the food. If he is too overwhelmed to enjoy it, then this can backfire and “poison” his enjoyment of the food in the future. So only use treats if your dog is happy to get them.

• Provide a chew (eg marrow bone, bully stick, beef tendon) or toy stuffed with food (eg peanut butter in Kong) if your dog is willing to work on it.

• Schedule trips out to potty very carefully. Ideally you can give him one trip before most of the fireworks start at sunset, and another late in the evening when most of the fireworks are done. Supervise your dog even in a fenced yard in case he tries to escape.

Alternative options:

• If you can drive to an area where fireworks are banned, or out to the country, you can do an evening road trip with your dogs. Go for a walk or just hang out in the car together.

• See if you have friends, family, or someone who does boarding in a quiet area and would be able to take care of your dog for the night.

How to pick a good puppy breeder

Happy puppy gives kisses to a new friend.

When you go out to purchase a puppy, you’re not just picking a pup from a litter. You’re also picking what genetics you’re purchasing, and what breeder you’re trusting to raise that pup. Genetics and early experiences come together to determine whether your pup will be easy or difficult to potty train, sleep through the night or throw a tantrum in his crate, let you take a bone from him or bite your hand, wag his tail at kids or growl and run away, and on and on. In short, your entire experience of puppy raising will be shaped by this combination of nature and nurture. Considering that this puppy will go on to live with you for another 10-15 years, this is not something that should be taken lightly!

Fortunately you can stack the deck in your favor by being careful about which breeder you purchase from.

Before you even start contacting breeders, the first step is for you to consider your home life and how the dog will fit into it.

• Will your pup be primarily an indoor or outdoor dog?

• Do children live in your home or visit often?

• Do you have other dogs? Cats? Other animals?

• Do you live in a busy urban area, quiet suburbs, or out in the country? What is the noise level around you?

Next, think about the activities you’d like to do with your pup once he’s an adult.

• Hiking? Swimming? Paddle boarding?

• Picnicking and large family gatherings?

• Hanging out at cafes and outdoor restaurants?

• Dog sports like agility, competitive obedience, or musical freestyle?

Talk to your family and write your lists. There’s one step here that I won’t go into, and that’s narrowing down which breeds are likely to be a good match for your lifestyle. That’s a whole other post! Let’s get to what you came here for - the secret rules that differentiate “good breeders” from “back yard breeders.”

…Well, except that there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to such a complicated topic! Since everyone’s situation, needs, and preferences are different, I’ve instead written out some guidelines for you to follow as you evaluate breeders. There will be exceptions to every bullet point. If the breeder you’re talking to does things differently, ask them why and listen carefully to their answer. Does it make sense, or does it rule them out when it comes to your particular household?

Pluses: Things you want from the breeder

• Keeps in contact with previous buyers and can tell you how their pups behave as adults. If they don’t keep track of their pups as they mature, they don’t really know what they’re producing. Bonus points if your pup’s relatives participate in the same activities as you plan to do with him.

• Interviews you carefully and makes sure that you would provide a good home for their puppy, rather than selling to anyone who has the money.

• Can tell you about any major illnesses or injuries that happened to dogs related to this litter, as they may have a genetic component.

• Performs health testing on their breeding dogs and available relatives, and can show you the results. For example, PennHIP is a well regarded way to evaluate risk of developing, or severity of, hip dysplasia. The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) provides testing for various conditions and a public database of results. You can browse by breed to see what testing is recommended by the national parent club of a breed you’re interested in. For cross breeds, look for tests recommended for the pure breeds that went into your potential puppy (ie, poodles and golden retrievers for a goldendoodle puppy).

• Lives in a similar environment to you (eg, urban, suburban, rural). If they live out in the country and you live downtown, it’s likely to be a difficult transition for the pup, which can lead to fear or reactivity. (However a puppy who is confident with loud noises, cars, strangers, etc, can overcome this.)

• Performs similar activities with their adult dogs as you want to do with your future pup (for example, hiking, walking downtown, therapy work, or agility). Or if they don’t, they know that previous puppy buyers have successfully done those activities.

  • Also consider the opposite - does the breeder do activities that don’t fit with your lifestyle? If they are breeding dogs that are frequently hunting, herding, or protecting the home/livestock, their puppies are not likely to be a good fit for a suburban family with little kids.

• Raises the puppies in their home (rather than outdoors in a yard or barn), unless you are specifically looking for an outdoor dog. Pups raised in the home will be much more comfortable with things like kitchen noises, vacuums, guests coming in, etc.

• Socializes the puppies to new people, including kids. Precautions should be taken to make sure that illnesses aren’t brought in, such as leaving shoes outside the puppy area, wearing clean clothes, and washing hands thoroughly. However puppies that haven’t met a variety of people at an early age are much more likely to be fearful of strangers.

• Socializes the puppies to other dogs (especially other breeds of dogs, if possible). I’ve met lots of puppies that got along well with the other purebred dogs in the household, but shrieked, barked, or ran away the moment they saw a dog who looked different.

• Socializes the puppies to other animals, if possible. This is especially important if you have cats, rabbits, parrots, livestock, etc.

• Provides lots of variety in the puppy pen. The pups should experience different surfaces, smells, sights, sounds, and so on. This creates more confident pups who can handle a variety of situations later in life. Introduction to different noises (carefully, at a level the pups can handle) is especially important if you live in a busy/noisy area.

• Introduces the puppies to crates. At the very least, there should be crates available for the pups to explore and rest in if they choose. Even better if the breeder gives them positive exposure to being closed into a crate by feeding the pups inside, or gets them used to sleeping in them overnight. (Crates are extremely useful tools for potty training, chew training, and separation training. They can also help keep your dog calm and still during recovery if he has an injury or severe illness later in life.)

• Starts the puppies on potty training by having a designated potty area in their pen or by taking them outdoors frequently.

• Gives you guidance in picking a pup from the litter, so that a busy household doesn’t take home the shyest pup, or a retired couple doesn’t get the most active one.

• Has you sign a contract that includes a clause stating that you will contact them first or return the dog to them if you can no longer care for him. They want to avoid having a dog they bred end up in a shelter or rescue.

Puppies learning about water in a safe, fun way!

Neutrals: Things that other people might tell you are important, but may not be to you

• Breeds only purebreds recognized by the AKC, not any “cross breeds,” “mutts,” or “designer dogs.” There are good breeders who are striving to create new breeds or individual dogs for specific tasks by mixing existing breeds. Did you know that Guide Dogs for the Blind regularly crosses purebred Labrador Retrievers and Golden Retrievers? There is nothing inherently better about a puppy who has only one type of dog in its lineage. I’ve owned and met many “doodles” and other mixes who were lovely dogs.

• Shows dogs in conformation (“dog shows”). This would only apply to currently recognized pure breeds. It is important that a breeder evaluates the structure (“conformation”) of their breeding dogs and puppies, to make sure that they are creating sound, healthy dogs. However that does not need to be done via dog shows. Success in dog sports, long happy lives in their previous dogs, and good evaluations by breed mentors can all point to sound structure.

• Breeds for uncommon coat colors or patterns. This is associated with “back yard breeders” and puppy mills, who often churn out uncommon or unusual puppies without regard for health or temperament. However with few exceptions (see below), there is nothing inherently wrong with breeding for specific coat colors. You have to evaluate the rest of the breeder’s program, separate from this.

  • A large amount of white on the face/head of a dog is associated with increased risk of deafness. Puppies like this should be BAER tested to find out if they have normal hearing or are unilaterally or bilaterally deaf.

  • Two dogs with the merle pattern should not be bred together unless the breeder is up to date on the very latest merle research and has had the lengths of the merle alleles tested, otherwise “double merle” puppies are likely to be blind and/or deaf.

  • Dogs with the dilute color gene (often referred to as “blue”) may suffer from color dilution alopecia. This is usually a mild cosmetic issue but may lead to secondary skin infections and itchiness. Not all dilute dogs have CDA.

Puppy meeting a calm cat.

Minuses: Things that should make you pause and think carefully

• Doesn’t let you meet the dam or other relatives of the litter. (Alternatively, lets you see them, but the dogs are barking at you and wary of approaching.) If your pup’s relatives aren’t friendly to strangers, chances are he won’t be, either.

• Doesn’t let you see where the puppies are living. You want to be able to look at their space and make sure that it’s clean and has a variety of surfaces and toys and things to climb on and under. It shouldn’t be so small that the pups are learning to potty where they eat and sleep.

• Is evasive about how the pups are raised and socialized, or gives very general or vague answers. Listen for specifics, not just that they met “a lot” of people or were handled “a lot.”

• Keeps their adult dogs in kennels outdoors - unless you plan to keep your dog primarily outdoors as well.

• Has a large number of breeding dogs, especially of multiple breeds. This is a red flag for a puppy mill. Of course, this is a guideline, not a rule - especially if the dogs are small breeds, and they can all comfortably live in the home.

• Regularly ships puppies to buyers without meeting them first. This is also a red flag for a puppy mill. Watch out for websites that emphasize the convenience of having your pup shipped to you. Again, this is a guideline - many breeders will ship puppies after carefully screening potential buyers.

• Allows buyers to select their pups “first come, first served,” or based solely on sex and color, without any input on the pups’ personalities and whether they’re a good fit for that household.

• Hands over puppies before they are 8 weeks old. Not only is 8 weeks widely considered to be a minimum amount of time that puppies should be with their littermates, but it is illegal in California to rehome them at an earlier age.

• Is heavy-handed with their puppies, doing things like forced downs, “alpha rolls,” holding puppies’ mouths shut for biting, or spanking. These all teach puppies that human hands coming toward them are scary. You want the opposite - a pup who trusts humans and is easily taught to allow all kinds of handling for grooming, vet care, etc.

Extra resources

I know of a few programs that guide breeders through early puppy raising, socialization, and training. The goal is to help breeders raise pups that are confident, friendly, stable, and make great family members. There is no guarantee that a puppy raised with these programs will be confident and outgoing, but it’s a good way to maximize your chances.

Puppy Culture - They also have a Facebook group where you can watch videos and read information about the program. Try doing a search for your breed of choice, and you may find a breeder near you.

Good Dog’s Good Breeder Courses (including the original AviDog A-Z program), along with webinars and articles.

Institute of Canine Biology’s Science of Canine Husbandry course, and several other courses. The blog is also a fantastic resource for those interested in health, population genetics, inbreeding coefficients, etc.

AviDog - They no longer host their A-Z program but still have a list of breeders who follow the program.

Good Dog is a database of vetted breeders that meet minimum requirements for health testing, behavioral screening, and puppy raising.

The Functional Dog Collaborative is a new program that helps breeders whose goals are to produce functional (physically and behaviorally) dogs who fit well into our modern world. Check out the official Facebook group - on Sundays they welcome posts from people looking for breeders or puppies.

The Bucket Game

The Bucket Game is a way to teach a dog to be calm and hold still for handling. It allows him to give active consent, which prevents defensive or aggressive behavior; there is no need to growl or bite if the dog knows that he can politely ask you to stop at any time. This is a great way to desensitize a fearful dog to grooming or vet care, or prepare a puppy for future handling needs. (See full article on desensitization and counter-conditioning here.)

What is it, exactly?

This webpage gives a thorough written explanation as well as example videos. Please read/watch the entire page.

Note that you don’t need to have a literal small bucket - a bowl or cup is fine - as long as it’s not the same bowl that the dog normally eats from.

More example videos:

Chimera telling us he's ready for cold laser therapy via the Bucket Game.

The Bucket game (English version) (Shows a dog already trained in the game receiving ear ointment)

Grooming with bucket game (Shows training for brushing from first steps)

Puppy Millie getting trimmed around her face

Puppy Coconuts getting used to paw handling

Puppy Coconuts getting used to brushing

Nail Grinding with the Bucket Game (Watch for what is described in the video’s info: “In the beginning of this video, I made a simple mistake that I didn't notice until I watched this. I started her out at the level that I had ended her last session at, instead of lowering my criteria and doing a warm up. She walked away right after to let me know and then notice how long it took for her to loosen up after because I had pushed way too far. The more you go their pace, the looser and more willing they are to play the game = more progress!”)

Written instructions:

1. Place some treats into a small “bucket” or bowl. Start lowering the bowl toward the ground, 8-12 inches at a time. At each new height, if your dog looks at the bowl but holds still and doesn’t try to help himself, click or say "yes," then hand him a treat from the bowl. Your dog does NOT need to be sitting - standing or lying down is fine. If he tries to go toward the bowl, lift it away, wait for him to hold still, then try again. Repeat until you can place the bowl on the ground and he stays about 1 foot away.

2. Give a few treats (with a pause between each treat) as your dog continues to look and hold still rather than going for the bowl. If he tries to help himself, lift the bowl away, wait for him to settle, then try again.

3. Reach toward your dog’s side or back. If he continues to look at the bowl and hold still, click or say "yes," then give him a treat from the bowl. If he looks at you or your hand, pause, wait for him to settle, and retry.

4. Repeat as above, but with a short pet on your dog’s side, back, or head/neck.

5. Give longer pets in easy areas (usually back, shoulder, or head/neck), continuing to reward for holding still and resetting if he says “no thanks.”

6. Practice handling various areas of your dog’s body, using grooming/vet tools as needed. Always let your dog tell you when he’s ready, when he needs a moment, or when he wants a break. Your dog is free to walk away at any time (and if he does, that means that you need to reevaluate your training steps.)

Geyser looks at the “bucket,” with some grooming and vet tools at the ready.